KOPIKO - East Cape to West Cape - 1070 KM - BIKE PACKING ADVENTURE

The last two weeks of February were an action packed roller coaster on two wheels!

Coronet Peak - TransNZ

Cautious rider!

Last minute prep at East Cape campsite!

Following an epic week of volunteer driving, plenty of down hill thrills, a few too many beers and shenanigans at the TransNZ enduro event, I travelled my way to the East Cape, north of Gisborne with my bestie & adventure buddy Peg, along with some other Coastal Crew lads. We were about to embark on 1070 km of pedalling across the North Island via a route organised by the Kennett Brothers.

The Coastal Crew ready to roll

Sunrise at East Cape

As the sun rose on the 22nd February, we hiked up a long set of stairs which climbed to the East Cape lighthouse. Here we were greeted by Jonathan Kennett who gave us our farewell and safe pedalling spiel before we all departed on our journey.
Firstly, I should explain this is not a necessarily a race for most of the riders! However, there are some people who choose to race it. The rules for this event are: 
You must follow the designated route; 
You must not ride more than 18 hours a day; 
You must be self supported; 
You are to take photos at each of the designated control points along the route. 
Our goal for the trip was NOT to race it, but rather to ride from daylight until dark so that we get to see all the country side, and to knock out approximately 200 km days in the saddle. We also planned a side trip to some friends of Peg’s at Makapua Station (Colin and Marg).

East Cape

Following the coast towards Opotoki

The last time we rode with the Coastal Crew boys for the week!

Sun-screening up before heading into Waihau Bay for lunch!

Urrrrrp?

One of the many Marae entrances!

Wet, wet, wet!
The top of the Motu valley saddle

Ducky shining in all her
radient glory!

During the first two days we followed the coastline, passed through the Motu valley and several back-country roads of the Hawke’s Bay. What stunning views with the weather playing its part until about 5pm both days. The evenings turned into torrential downpours cutting us slightly short of our desired amount of riding. So the first night after not finding any shelter that was dry, we bombarded an already fully booked bed and breakfast accommodation in the Motu valley. We were only too happy to sleep in the hallway due to the lack of floor space, where we were disturbed all night by other riders traipsing past us to empty their bladders! The second night we were forced to stop at the Tiniroto pub to make a decision wether to carry on to Makapua Station, another 65 km further on. I was like a drowned rat and shivering uncontrollably. I knew as soon as we stopped that it would be the end of the day for me. A hot bowl of chips and a warm shower at the local community hall was a good enough excuse for me to make the executive decision to stay there for the night.

The Motu Valley the morning after a good soak! 

Traffic jam!

 High up in the Motu valley

Motu valley

Rere rock slide

Rere rock slide

Manualling

Blackberry trail food

One of the many stops for the ideal trail snack!

Soggy day!

With only 65 km to Makapua Station the next day we planned a cruisy start. However, the soggy day also meant a sludgy 65 km of gear grinding gravel road surface which was hard going. I was only too pleased to be stopping early to have a “so called rest-day!”. We conveniently arrived at Ohuka Station (friends of Colin & Marg’s just along the road from their place) at lunch time. The afternoon began with delicious homemade soup and bread at Jan’s (at Ohuka Station), followed by a long hot soak in a bath, and a tour around Makapua Station with Marg. What a wonderful slice of paradise with plenty of beautiful wild deer to be sighted!  Meeting these true-blue kiwi folks was most certainly a highlight of the trip. After a few beers and continuous grazing, we set off for a good nights sleep and an early start to knock off 250 km the next day, making up for a little bit of lost time!

Te Reinga Falls - Impressive after loads of rain!

Gravel grinding - drive chain gear grinding!

Slips

Glassing for deer at the hunters lodge!

Home-kill bacon -
A real kiwi breakfast!

Colin, Peg and Marg
loving the early morning start!

Let the day begin!

Lake Waikaremoana

What a glorious ride around the shores of the Lake Waikaremoana and through the misty rain forrest of the Te Urewera's country, the home of the Tuhoe people - “children of the mist”. As predicted, we were be greeted by blue skies and searing hot sunshine at the saddle before we hooned down the valley into Ruatahuna. There were several groups of free range horses and some cattle to dodge on the way. We stopped for lunch for what I rated the best food stop of the tour. Ruatahuna has a wonderful new establishment with great hospitality, serving up the most amazing meal coupled with true local warmth. 

"Children of the mist"

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Let there be sunshine!

One of the many
wild life caution signs!

Roaming horses!

Fuelled by snickers!

Best food at Ruatahuna!

puppy cuddles!

Headstands at the Minginui 

Waiotapu mud pools

Time trialling from Murapara
to Waiotapu.  

Rotorua country

Evening setting in!

Setting off for Murapara was our next micro-goal of the day where we quickly refuelled with an ice block and milk drink which set us in good stead for the next leg. The dreaded 43 kilometre incline to Waiotapu along the main highway! This turned out to be surprisingly fast and was topped off with a fun flowy single track to Waiotapu mud pools. 
Another micro-stop for a dose of salt and sugar at Arataki Honey Store just on closing time, was the fuel needed for the fire to push us on a further 75 km slog on to Whakamaru. The sunset certainly made up for the previous rain infused days end of riding!

Another beautiful sunset on the
backroads in the Waikite valley!

Darkness is upon us now!

  

Tennis court shelter campsite!

Eventually we rolled into Whakamaru at 11 pm following a super fun undulating single track which seemed fast at the time, but wasn't really! We had originally planned to pick up our food parcel and carry on for another 17km to our next planned accommodation. However, tiredness overtook us and we failed to find the address for where our food parcel was stored. A shelter next to the local tennis court made a dry and sufficiently comfortable stealth campsite.

Early next morning we headed back into the township to find our food parcel, only to realise we were standing directly opposite the house it was stored at the previous night. I was ever so slightly disappointed to miss out on a shower, clean clothes and a bit of floor space for the night. However, we were delighted to pick up our second batch of "blondie" (Peg's specialty high calorie trail food) and more Back Country meals. What a lovely welcoming we received from Garry and Margie who kindly offered up their house as a recharge, refuelling point for all the passing Kopiko riders. The ultimate trail angels for sure!

Morning face wash!

After regathering ourselves we set off for the Timber Trail and beyond. The first obstacle was a traffic jam that cost us an hour of waiting at the Arataki swing bridge. This was due to a clash of Tour Aotearoa and Kopiko riders all arriving at the same time, which was about 2 hours after daylight. After an entertaining display of awkward bike carrying across a wobbly wire bridge, and filling our bellies with wild blackberries (the most popular trail food and excuse for a micro-stop) whilst waiting, we were rolling along again passing loads of riders including the Kopiko riders who were riding in the opposite West to East direction of our route. The day turned into a searing hot and almost unbearable heat. We were super thankful that a good chunk of the Timber trail was in the shade of the bush and that there was a new Lodge half way where we stopped for pizza and coke. "

"It's all down hill from here!" says Peg. Yeah right??

The long wait as we cued to cross
the Arataki swing bridge!

We finally reached Ongarue about 6:30pm only to stop in at the infamous Remi Rensen's accommodation. Remi was a true character who almost convinced us (in his words "stinky riders in bikinis") to stay the night. I was keen to push on an extra 50km to Ohura where we had hoped we might make our stopping point for the day. However, Remi introduced us to his friend Priscilla who talked us into riding only 35km instead and staying at her Air B&B. After a few donuts, some tangy heart burn inducing plum juice and L&P we decided to skid the wheels for Priscilla's place in Matiere. 

The centre of the North Island

The start of the Timber Trail

One of the many swing bridges on the Timber Trail

I like signs that suggest
more down hill

The display of handle bar antlers at the mid-way point
and Lodge on the Timber Trail!
Best pizza's too :-)

Peg taking a nap!

Look out point on the Timber Trai 

Searing heat

We rode into another beautiful sunset up a beautiful winding climb with our old mate Pat ("My name is Pat and that's that!" - Well that is how we labelled him during our Tour Aotearoa ride back in 2016, as he was a man of few words). This particular evening he was quite chatty and we finally got to learn a lot about him. As darkness set in, it turned out that Pat became very useful as my head torch ran out of charge because I didn't get time to charge it up from the previous evenings long hours of riding in darkness. Luckily for me, I ended up being chaperoned by Pat and Peg to Matiere in the dark without a light. There were a few roaming wild goats crossing the road randomly, so I was very thankful for lights.




Another evening of pure bliss = a shower, freshly washed clothes and some real food other than Back Country meals and a decent nights sleep in a real bed = setting off in a better frame mind = a good day in the saddle :-)
Our goal today was to complete the Kopiko route - "to knock the bastard off!"

Caffeinating

This day was another stunning day of riding with lots of winding back country roads, including the Forgotten World Highway. Our first stop was only 15 km into the day in Ohura, at Michelle's cart for a coffee and scones and biscuits to take away. How lucky were we to have such fabulous services provided at these small places along the route.

More winding roads with several short climbs and descents!

With caffeine flowing through our veins we high tailed it to Whangamomona for lunch at the Hotel. Whangamomona is a quirky little town known best for having its own republic established in 1988 (it also happens to be controversial). Billy the goat, Tai the poodle, and Murt the turtle are just a few of the presidents that have been elected. After discovering that animals life expectancy was not great and an attempted assassination of Tai who retired not long after, it was decided that they elect a person to do the job!

Turkey country!

Happy days!

The forgotten world highway!

More roaming stock!

The forgotten world highway!

Always snacking!

One of the many tunnels on the forgotten world highway!

Planking!

Training!

Whangamomona

Lunch stop at the Whangamomona Hotel

Time to refresh the body - this was like adding a few extra
watts of power for the next hour!

After lunch it was more winding, climby roads, saddles, down hills and tunnels until we desperately needed water, not to mention a stop out of the burning heat of the day. We came across the fruit orchard at Purangi where Laurel and Ian also provided accommodation on the route. We were welcomed delightfully to top up our water bottles and check out their accommodation which they had converted from the old school. Just 10 km along from their place we stopped at a swimming pool we had heard about which we were allowed to take a dip in. This was one of the many highlights of the day! Peg and I had a few "fun" races (a very short length pool - I'm saying 8 metres long??). This was so refreshing and set us off in super happy moods for the next leg of the journey. 

Which way now? 

Typical diving style for Peg 

An endo into the ditch at the
Kelly road intersection!  

I had a scary, asthma-inducing experience that afternoon. We were about to head into one of the many tunnels that day, when I thought I heard a vehicle just before entering. I asked Peg if she could hear the vehicle and she said "no". So we entered, and then I heard the loud rumbling roar of a V8 Landcruiser enter the tunnel with us. Knowing we had not turned on our rear lights prior, and not sure if the driver would see our silhouettes, I sprinted for the end. Given we had just climbed a hill before entering the tunnel, the sprint on top left me completely exhausted and gasping for air! The driver tooted happily as he passed us safely on the other side. I still don't know if he saw us or not?
We both looked at each other, laughed and continued on our merry way!

This was an absolute hoot to do a lap with these wee jiggers on the BMX track!

New Plymouth cycle trails 

Finally, we reached the outskirts of New Plymouth. The roads became urbanised and soon it wasn't long before we were in the thick of New Plymouth's town cycle trails with people everywhere. We stopped for a look at BMX riders practising on a track, something I have not witnessed in real life. My curiosity got the better of me and I decided I should give it a go, bike-packing gear and all! I coaxed a couple of the young kids into joining me for a lap. I left the start line gingerly and cruised safely over the undulating track without killing myself or breaking my bike. Phew!

Another evening riding into darkness

A random encounter
with Matt who wasn't
doing the Kopiko route!

Continuing on through the town seemed to go on forever. While Peg took a phone call organising our end of tour beverages, another bike packing guy stopped to chat to us. This guy was not a Kopiko rider. In fact, as it turned out, it was the most random encounter! A soon as he started chatting I instantly recognised him from 7 years prior when he, through a friend of a friend, came to my place and stayed for a couple nights on one of his previous bike packing trips to NZ. So after a lengthy enough catchup and some photos we continued on. 

Another stealth campsite!

The day had slipped away on us more than we had envisaged, and again we rode into another epic sunset. It became apparent the we were going to finish in the dark and that we weren't allowed to camp at, or near the lighthouse. We had 30 kilometres to the finish.  So we made a decision to set up a stealth camp in an information booth at Pukeiti, get up early and finish as the sun came up over Mount Taranaki. What a stunning way to end the ride! 

Sunrise on Mount Taranaki - A fabulous way to finish our tour :-)

Taranaki through the
eyes of my zipp wheel

Yay! We did it!

"Kopiko" done and dusted!

West Cape lighthouse

Stoke factor!

West Cape lighthouse

Breakfast while waiting on our ride to New Plymouth for our
second breakfast and a bus ride back home!

Statistics for the week

Arrived home to find this in our fridge!
Yummo! Thanks Jill Wild :-)

A big thanks goes out to the Kennett Brothers who organised the most awesome route and event. It has been a privilege to be part of both the inaugural Tour Aotearoa (Cape Reinga to Bluff) in 2016, and Kopiko East to West Cape events. 

We live in a beautiful country and we are so lucky to be able to explore these off the beaten roads and trails. Bike-packing is in my opinion, one of the best ways to live, breathe and experience the local people and countryside. Most importantly, anyone can do this!